Searching Karima's lost treasures

Its ancient treasures may now lie in scattered ruins, but Karima still evokes a palpable sense of history; a time when pharaohs ruled and a powerful kingdom took shape. 

The desert is reclaiming the pyramids

 It takes about 3.5 hours to reach Karima from Ed Damer. Squeezed into a crowded minibus and sandwiched between two turbaned men as it were, I spent half the trip trying to circulate some blood supply into my leg which was wedged between two sacks of grain. 

Being the only khawadja and woman on the bus, I spent the other half of the journey trying to look inconspicuous as a means of deflecting the intensity of the men’s stares. 

Modern day Karima was once known as Napata. It was the early capital of the Nubian Kingdom of Kush which flourished during the seventh and eighth centuries BC.

View of Karima town and the Nile

 This powerful African dynasty oversaw a period of empire expansion, which included conquering Egypt in the process.

Later the ancient capital south to Meroë, persisting until the fourth century AD, when the empire eventually declined. 

Today a crumbling, but impressive field of pyramids remains, the final resting place of more than 40 kings and queen.

Karima's archaeological remains are centred around the impressive Jebel Barkal, which means Holy Mountain in Arabic.

The rock resembles a rearing cobra

Standing sentry on the outskirts of town and rising out of the desert sands, the cobra-headed mountain was revered in ancient times as the home of the god Amun. 

One of the most important deities in Egyptian mythology, rituals and coronations were also carried out at Barkal so that new kings could be anointed in the presence of Amun.

Carved into the mountain itself is the sanctuary of the Temple of Mut, dedicated to Amun's wife, the Egyptian sky goddess. Its darkened interior reveals a striking series of hieroglyphics and relief carvings. 

View of the pyramids from mountain top

 Today, the temple is locked behind a modern metal door to protect it from vandalism, but the keys are available from the nearby museum.

The Temple of Amun - once a massive complex - now lies in scattered ruins at the base of the sacred mountain.

Nearby lies a modest field of small pyramids, slowly being reclaimed by the desert sands.

View of Karima from the mountain top

 The flattened peak of Barkal resembles a moonscape, with its jagged black boulders and rocky surface.

The vantage point provides a beautiful panorama of the entire region, spanning the empty desert interior, the urban sprawl of Karima and the green palm groves and villages that stretch along either side of the Nile. 

We leave the desert behind and walk back to town the long way through the silent palm groves.

Jebel Barkal: View from the palm groves

 Black and white cows gaze at us disinterestedly and through the trees we catch glimpses of village farmers working in their white jellabiyahs. 

As we walk the barren rock face of the mountain slowly disappears behind a curtain of date palms.

Date palms

Karima is a laid back market town, and much like its ancient wonders, parts of its more recent history have also passed their glory days. 

The town's railway industry is now defunct, although the station house looks well maintained - if a little forlorn.

The empty seats along the platform seem to be waiting almost optimistically, as though the next train had simply been delayed and was on its way. 

Karima's riverboat graveyard

 Karima is also the eerie resting place of several British steamers, which plied the Nile during colonial times as passenger boats, mobile traders and post offices.

Overgrown steamboat

When they were no longer economically viable they were unceremoniously hauled up on the banks of the Nile where they remain stranded to this day in a tangle of undergrowth and weeds. 

Forgotten souvenirs

 It is possible to climb aboard and explore the interiors, and despite their poor state there is something endearing about these grand old riverboats.

Life jacket stamped "London 1962"

 Tap fittings, claw-footed baths, instructions to passengers and London-stamped life jackets remain onboard, coated in a heavy layer of dust, like nostalgic reminders of a bygone era. 

In this picturesque setting, it is not hard to re-imagine these old steamboats in their former glory, sailing serenely along the blue waters.

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A birthday surprise made in Sudan ...

As an aside, I also celebrated my birthday while in Karima. Sudanese don't do birthdays and the 'event' largely promised to pass by without much fanfare (much like Christmas and New Year).

After such muted celebrations for these occasions, the thought I must admit was a little depressing. 

I received an unexpected lift however, when another SVP volunteer surprised me with a birthday cake.

The cake was designed by my friend, who supervised its creation by a Sudanese housewife in the northern village of Delgo. 

Remarkably the woman had managed to acquire coconut, sprinkles, chocolate and icing sugar in the Delgo souk (not exactly known for its wide variety of shopping choice).

More accustomed to baking bread, the lady modelled my cake on one she had once seen in an upmarket bakery in Khartoum. It was very tasty indeed, I must say! 

She had also written my name in icing across the top, despite the fact she doesn't speak English or know the Latin alphabet.

When other villagers came to view the finished product I'm told they scratched their head quizzically and asked ... “What is Kate?” 

This thoughtful gesture is one of the nicest things someone has done for me in a very long time.

Blowing out the solitary green candle and cutting pieces with a Swiss army knife after arriving in Karima is not something I will forget easily. 

Sometimes the simple act of kindness is the best gift of all.