Black markets & Sudanese high life

A visit to the black market money changers to switch some euros into local Sudanese Pounds is a must soon after arriving in Khartoum. 

Due to U.S sanctions there are no international ATM machines in Sudan and nor can credit cards be used, so the only way to get money is to bring it with you or have it wired via Western Union. 

A flourishing black market has thus sprung up, due largely to the uniformaly bad rates offered by local banks for foreign currency.

I had visions of surreptitiously haggling in narrow back streets, but instead Rami lead me into a local clothing store in the nearby Souq (market), before promptly disappearing into a back room along with my cash. 

Soon after I was also called into the room and handed a rather large wad of money to count. Watching on was a row of rather stern young men drinking tea, along with an elderly gentleman, who presided over a small battered safe at the back of the room.

Of course, anyone that knows me will be aware of my complete and utter lack of any mathematical skill, so no surprises then that I was struggling to come up with a final total under such heavy scrutiny. Luckily no-one seemed in a hurry to finish their tea.

During the day I also chatted with the other volunteers, who like me are staying at the flat while their placements and paperwork are finalised.

I also meet Rebecca, a wonderful English lady who gave up her houseboat on the Thames to come and teach in Sudan. She has already been teaching in Ed Damer (where I will be placed) for a few months, so we will be working together.

Later that day Kit - a former SVP volunteer - who is now a trustee, took Rebecca and I to meet long-time SVP supporter Griselda.

A well-known British matriarch and widow of the famed Sudanese scholar Abdullah Tayib, Griselda - who now resides in Khartoum - has kindly offered Rebecca and I use of her vacant flat in Ed Damer rent free.

This news is a huge relief, particularly for Rebecca, who has been enduring some rather unsuitable accommodation arrangements since arriving in Ed Damer.

Arriving at Griselda's, our group is greeted at the front gates by her niece Fadia, who lives in Ed Damer with her family. This warm and friendly woman immediately offers to take us under her wing once we arrive.

Decorated with Griselda’s artworks depicting famous Sudanese landscapes, as well as various collectables from the couple’s travels in Africa, her home has a cosy, bohemian feel. Air-conditioned and spacious, it is also a welcome oasis from the heat and chaos outside.

Fadia serves chilled hibiscus tea and traditional Sudanese sweets in the lounge, while we chat to Griselda about the arrangements in Ed Damer. 

A formidable and articulate woman, Griselda, who is now in her 80s, has a feisty sense of humour and shares some wonderful stories of her early life in Sudan and the many colourful characters she has met over the years.

An artwork by Griselda showing a tea lady

We also meet Hugh, an affable former barrister from Sheffield, who is on his second teaching assignment in Sudan with SVP.

As Griselda serves us cake and tea on matching fine bone china, I rather feel like I’ve stepped into a scene from a high society English tea party. She is at pains to point out that there is real milk (somewhat of a luxury in Sudan where powdered milk is more commonly served).

As we say our goodbyes later to Fadia and Griselda, Kit and Hugh ask me if I want to accompany them to their meeting with a prominent Khartoum businessman, and another local SVP supporter.

I’m still buzzing from the wonderful afternoon tea at Griselda’s when we arrive at Mahmoud’s house in the posh Khartoum 2 district.

I’m gob-smacked when the gates open to reveal a luxurious yellow mansion, set within immaculately kept gardens and surrounded by palm and orange trees.

The maids bring grapefruit juice in fine crystal glasses, followed by tea (with real milk, of course), homemade cakes and finally delicious Lebanese coffee.

The evening takes another surreal turn when talk turns to Mahmoud’s business interests and he begins to tell us how a chance meeting in Kuala Lumpur with an official there resulted in him later being appointed the Honorary Consul of Malaysia in Khartoum.

At the time, Malaysia was keen to expand their oil interests in Sudan, however, the North-South conflict continued to impede further development.

We all listen intently as Mahmoud goes on to explain how he managed to broker a top-level meeting between Malaysian government officials and then South Sudanese rebel leader John Garang, despite, he said, having no political connections.

Ever the gracious host, Mahmoud offers to drive me and Hugh home after the meeting, but before that he takes us on a short tour of his street. 

Along the way he points out several luxury properties that he also owns, including a split level rose-coloured home complete with swimming pool that is rented by his son and a palatial white mansion currently rented by the Swedish ambassador to Sudan.

When I return to the SVP flat, I find the other volunteers sitting in the crowded living room, empty take away containers lie discarded on the table … and just like that my brush with Sudanese high life abruptly comes to an end.