Khartoum impressions

Tea time by the Nile

Stepping out into the streets of Khartoum is a bit like stepping into another world: It can be overwhelming, but at the same time it's a revelation. 

While most people in the west associate only negative images with Khartoum and Sudan in general, the city actually feels very safe and welcoming. 

Vegetable market

I have only been here now for a couple of days and I still a bit shy and very much aware of my foreignness. 

But saying that, the Sudanese people I’ve met so far have been incredibly friendly - if a little bemused to find a Khawaja (foreigner) in their midst.

Here there is a real warmth and genuineness in people’s greetings.

Everywhere you go people wave and call out “welcome, how are you” - a refreshing change from the usual mindset in big cities where people rush about their business without pausing to talk or smile at those around them.

The Sudanese are famously generous and even if they don't have much themselves, people are always happy to offer you a tea or cold drink - even pay your bus fare.

There’s certainly no shortage of dust, dirt, heat and rubbish in Khartoum's chaotic streets. And while elegant mansions can be found in the posher districts, the majority of buildings downtown remain half-finished concrete shells or appear to be in a perpetual state of decay. 

 But amidst this, is a sort of frenetic, buzzing energy and a colourful and enterprising street trade. 

Date stalls

Entering the souqs (markets) is to step into a chaotic labyrinth of narrow backstreets and bustling thoroughfares, with traders, donkeys, shoppers and delivery men all clambering for space.

Here you can find a wide range of every item imaginable from clothes to shoes, spices, jewellery and household goods.

Street traders fill any gaps with an eclectic assortment of odds and ends - their wares displayed without fanfare on small carboard boxes or plastic sheets.

Men cut toenails, shine shoes, repair watches, and sell anything from cigarettes, flip flops, batteries, used phone chargers, loofahs and torches that may or may not double as hand-held radios.

There are date stalls, falafels, barbecued meats, second hand clothing, outlandishly coloured leather shoes, while the whir of blenders signal Khartoum’s popular juice stands. 

Tea is a favourite Sudanese pastime

During the call to prayer men hurriedly wash themselves with public water jugs before entering designated tent areas for prayer.

Another common sight in the streets are the brightly coloured orange water coolers with shared drinking cups. Water being one of the basic tenets of Islam, these are provided as a free service to residents and can be found scattered across the city.

The mainstay of Sudanese street life here, however, is its smiling tea ladies. These simple stalls offer an assortment of sweet teas and coffee infused with ginger. 

I guess you can say it’s the Sudanese way to chill out. People from all walks of life meet here to chat or simply while away a few hours during the hottest part of the day.