One evening in Khartoum

Tea with Nada, Mona and Rheem

If arriving in Khartoum had a surreal feeling, leaving again was bittersweet. 

It’s been almost a month since I first landed in this bustling, sprawling, incoherent maze of a city just before dawn. 

During that time I have lucky enough to meet a lovely group of local people who have sat with me over endless cups of tea, sharing wonderful insights that have helped me navigate life in Sudan so far.

On our last night in Khartoum (for awhile), fellow volunteer Robert - was also leaving the following day for his placement in Delgo - and I joined a mutual group of friends at a popular boulevard (although that might be overstating it somewhat) lined with tea ladies and plastic chairs along the banks of the Nile.

Moeze ever the poetic philosopher turned to us on the way and said somberly: “Khartoum will be darker tomorrow...” For a moment we thought he was talking about power cuts until he continued ... “two of its lights are leaving” and we realised rather belatedly he was actually talking about us.

The ladies that joined us spoke limited English, so what followed was a raucous if somewhat bewildering conversation interspersed with rather inexplicable bursts of laughter. 

Moeze our go-between did his best, but most of the humour seemed to be lost in translation. 

Regardless, I was soon laughing a long wholeheartedly with everyone else whether I understood the punchline or not. 

It was the most I’ve laughed in a long, long time and it really was a lovely evening spent with good company. 

Sudanese have a wonderful capacity to make you feel welcomed. 

As we were waiting to take an amjad back downtown, Mona - one of the young ladies - suddenly took my hand (here it’s quite common for lady friends to walk hand and hand) as we strolled down the road. “Beautiful”, she said touching my hair, “beautiful” she said pointing to my blue earrings.

Although I am enjoying getting to know life here, there are moments when I really miss the 

closeness and familiarity of my female friends. 

And even though we had only just met and did not share a common language, I felt so grateful and touched for Mona’s spontaneous gesture.

Khartoum impressions

Tea time by the Nile

Stepping out into the streets of Khartoum is a bit like stepping into another world: It can be overwhelming, but at the same time it's a revelation. 

While most people in the west associate only negative images with Khartoum and Sudan in general, the city actually feels very safe and welcoming. 

Vegetable market

I have only been here now for a couple of days and I still a bit shy and very much aware of my foreignness. 

But saying that, the Sudanese people I’ve met so far have been incredibly friendly - if a little bemused to find a Khawaja (foreigner) in their midst.

Here there is a real warmth and genuineness in people’s greetings.

Everywhere you go people wave and call out “welcome, how are you” - a refreshing change from the usual mindset in big cities where people rush about their business without pausing to talk or smile at those around them.

The Sudanese are famously generous and even if they don't have much themselves, people are always happy to offer you a tea or cold drink - even pay your bus fare.

There’s certainly no shortage of dust, dirt, heat and rubbish in Khartoum's chaotic streets. And while elegant mansions can be found in the posher districts, the majority of buildings downtown remain half-finished concrete shells or appear to be in a perpetual state of decay. 

 But amidst this, is a sort of frenetic, buzzing energy and a colourful and enterprising street trade. 

Date stalls

Entering the souqs (markets) is to step into a chaotic labyrinth of narrow backstreets and bustling thoroughfares, with traders, donkeys, shoppers and delivery men all clambering for space.

Here you can find a wide range of every item imaginable from clothes to shoes, spices, jewellery and household goods.

Street traders fill any gaps with an eclectic assortment of odds and ends - their wares displayed without fanfare on small carboard boxes or plastic sheets.

Men cut toenails, shine shoes, repair watches, and sell anything from cigarettes, flip flops, batteries, used phone chargers, loofahs and torches that may or may not double as hand-held radios.

There are date stalls, falafels, barbecued meats, second hand clothing, outlandishly coloured leather shoes, while the whir of blenders signal Khartoum’s popular juice stands. 

Tea is a favourite Sudanese pastime

During the call to prayer men hurriedly wash themselves with public water jugs before entering designated tent areas for prayer.

Another common sight in the streets are the brightly coloured orange water coolers with shared drinking cups. Water being one of the basic tenets of Islam, these are provided as a free service to residents and can be found scattered across the city.

The mainstay of Sudanese street life here, however, is its smiling tea ladies. These simple stalls offer an assortment of sweet teas and coffee infused with ginger. 

I guess you can say it’s the Sudanese way to chill out. People from all walks of life meet here to chat or simply while away a few hours during the hottest part of the day.